Monday, January 7, 2013

Greek Orthodox Churches and Chapels

The presence and strength of Christianity on Crete is undeniable. There are no public outcries at the intrusion of their spiritual foundation in their public life.

It is refreshing.


These  pictures  were taken last week in Chania at the creche scene outside the public market.

Even at this late hour of about 2 a.m. people out and about are paying a visit to the creche. 


 But Christianity quickly gets far more interesting as I travel. This is a cave church dating back about a 1000 years to the time when the Muslims were defeated in Crete and Christianity was reintroduced. St John Xenos was one of the priests credited with the renewal in western Crete and this cave church is dedicated to him. It is clearly ancient.
This is a flabbergasting place of worship. The cave is quite dry and deep. The cavern has natural stone columns that support the roof. It is a few hundred feet deep and the altar occupies the high spot at the back although other chapels such as a baptism chapel are found on the sides. The altar is a huge tree trunk left natural and covered with what appears to be a very old simple cloth. Stalactites drip water that is meticulously gathered in a basin. What it is used for is unknown as there was no one there to explain anything when I visited this high mountain shrine. We'll have a slide show on these sites when I return. This is a sampler.

A few kilometers away on another mountain is this cave church, again high above a valley. In this case, a church fascia has been added to the cave opening.
Inside all these chapels are votives surrounding the various icons. These are purchased by a person and dedicated to a healing icon. This one is of a little girl. Did she die? Was she ill? behind her is a votive for a baby. Others may be a leg or an arm or even a house. All indicate a 'need' someone had and dedicated a votive in the course of seeking resolution. 


I took a road trip today across the island to the Libyan Sea and at the village of Hora Sfakion I saw this mountain cave shrine. I was not prepared to make the hike up.
If you look in the center of this picture, just above the houses of the village, you can see the photo enlarged above.
On another mountain is the Agios Stephanos. There is evidence this church dates to about the 10th century.The icons and murals are clearly visible, although fading. It is astounding to be in such a tiny building that could hold 10 people at most that is at the same time so ancient. I had to duck to get through the door and I am taller than the door into the inner sanctuary
This church is the Agios of Mikhail Archangelous (Michael the Archangel). It dates to about 500 AD. Evidence emerging from some archaeological digs around the church are leading to the conclusion it is still older than that. The five concentric levels of the dome are extremely rare anywhere. Most old churches have a relic associated with it. In this case it is the unusual dome that is the relic.
Worship is also very much a home or business ritual. The grocery store I was in today had an icon over the cash.  A restaurant I went to for amazing lamb chops, had this icon beside the fireplace
In the village of Kalyves there is a fishermen's chapel at the end pf the pier. It is tiny, large enough for just one person.
Look at the interior detail of this tiny chapel seen above.

Greek Orthodoxy focuses on the birth of Jesus, the incarnation. This statue sits where we might expect to see a cross, or in the case of Roman Catholics, the crucifix

It is hard to not see a church or chapel somewhere, no matter where you are on this island. They are everywhere. Mountain tops. Odd little spots. Along the road ways. Many are very small.   The chapel on this outcrop is so small one can not get into it, yet there it is!
There will be more to follow on this topic as I travel. I am in need of an interpreter for much of what I am experiencing!







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