A Mountain Hotel Stay - Zaros

Now this is a key.

It weighs over a couple of pounds.

It does not fit into any pocket.

It is the sort of key you would not casually toss to a partner, unless you were intent on inflicting possible harm.

This is the key to the large oaken door of my traditional hotel room in Zaros.


 Following my visit to Phaistos, the second most important Minoan palace site that sits on a hill with a commanding view of the Mesara Plain, the main agricultural belt of Crete, I went to Zaros for the night.


 Zaros is a high mountain village tucked away in a beautiful valley. It has a panoramic view of Mt Ida, where Rhea hid Zeus as a child to keep him from Chronus who wanted to eat him.  Here on Mt. Ida, he was raised by the nymphs. 
 






 I stayed at the utterly charming Keramos Hotel, a family run business.

 This very old hotel features a truly authentic experience of Cretan mountain hospitality.

The family owns large organic farm and other than coffee and such - everything they serve is fresh from the farm. In January, that still includes plump ripe tomatoes, lamb, fresh beans of all sorts, greens, juicy oranges and mandarins and their own feta, yogurt, homemade wine and more.

 The night I arrived I was met at the door by Katrina, a lovely lady, probably over 70 yrs old, with a wide smile and one of the most jolly personalities I ever met. I was welcomed with herbal tea, traditional spoon sweets, delicious savoury biscuits and made to sit a spell by her fire, snapping with olive wood.  Her son-in-law dropped by and shared tiny glasses of tsikoudia with us.  Katerina doesn't speak more than a few words of English, but with gestures, lots of laughter and my limited menu Greek, we managed to communicate quite well.

She explained all the tavernas were closed that night so she would make me supper: what time would I like to eat?

Supper began with stuffed vine leaves and scrumptious tzatziki, ----- and their own wine, which would have been enough.

Then came a huge platter of roast lamb with roasted potatoes- delicious.  Then came the vegetables - stewed beans, okra, onion and fava beans. As I was taking one mouthful of each new offering, she'd bustle out of her kitchen, giggling, with another platter of something yummy - next up was mashed fava and onions and a plate of banana peppers stuffed with feta and herbs. While I ate she was busy poking at the fire place finally taking an enormous home made smoked pork sausage from the fire and serving it up.

By now I was begging for mercy!  Keep in mind, that I was the only guest in the hotel.




Katrina is known across Crete for her famous breakfasts and her pastries- especially her phyllo pastry. She is written up in several magazines and offers cooking classes in the high season. I went to bed stuffed like a Christmas goose, but dreaming of the morning feast to come.

Breakfast was a feast to behold. Over 16 different pastries from a light cookie-like sweet to fruit filled pastry to spinach and cheese stuffed pies. Again, she kept bringing out platter after platter of the next savoury treat - all the while, I could hear her singing in the kitchen along with the broadcast of the church service on the radio.  I was stuffed. Then, she brings out a bag and signs for me to take all the leftovers for a picnic lunch later that day. She didn't have to ask twice.



 Should you ever visit Crete, one of the world's top 10 destinations this year according to CNN, this is an experience you will not want to miss. 

The cost for all this?

Room. A welcome snack and drink, a feast of a supper, an astonishing breakfast.

35 E or about $50!

Lest you think my entire visit there was about food (OK, it was a highlight) let me tell you a bit about the hotel too - it is built and decorated in the traditional Cretan style - roughly plastered walls, high beamed ceilings, whacky uneven floors and corridors, an open fireplace, gorgeous ornately carved heavy wood furniture, and small antiques everywhere - including the old pistolas from the revolution casually placed on the mantle.  The walls, floors, tables and windows are adorned with traditional weavings and embroideries that Katerina made as a young girl for her dowry.  Her work is astonishing. What a treat is was to be inside this home!

Fascinating hotel, abundant generous food and drink - but honestly - what made this stay so special was the delightful experience of meeting this lovely woman and being so welcomed into her home.

If you ever get the chance to visit Zaros, I encourage you to stay with Katerina..... here is the hotel website:   http://www.studiokeramos-zaros.gr/en/aboutus.html