This road is named Oxi

Greece has voted.

The result is a conclusive "OXI" [pronounced "O-Shee"] and means NO

But No to what exactly?

How often has someone said "what is there to understand about "No"?"

In this case everything. No is about as unclear as it can be. There is no apparent plan for OXI




The guns rang out after dark last evening with tracers filling the night sky around the valleys of our villa and the sounds of AK47s and Kalahnikovs firing reverberated off the mountains.

One bullet came down in our yard whizzing through the air and burying itself with a  thud about 4 meters from where I sat. That got my attention.

It is a common thing on Crete for the guns to fire for any reason from a family celebration to a community event. Even Easter [Pascha here] is marked with extensive gun fire.




The Cretans are happy with the result. This island voted 73% No which is what I was experiencing antidotally as I talked with Greeks.The feeling is that they have defended their freedom against "enslavement to the Eurozone"

The ex-pats wanted a Yes vote and fear what the No will mean. They fear ambiguity but I concluded that Yes might leave ex-pats more vulnerable than No.

The past few days saw me leaning more and more to No being the wisest choice between two very bad options. That left me alone in my ex-pat circle of friends but those who know me will recall swimming against the majority is a common position for me.

One business owner in Loutra, an isolated resort community on the Libyan Sea where I spent yesterday, summed it up best for me. He said "this referendum is a small matter for me". He said the referendum was a mistake. "Syriza was elected to lead and failed with this question which will go No and will simply mean the Greeks reaffirm their choice of Syriza to lead and now they will have to lead- which is what they should have done in the first place".

The fact that the economic crisis will grow and impact all of Europe was affirmed over night. The Euro has begun its fall in value against other currencies.

As messed up as the economy and governance are in Greece, and these are very messy indeed, the EU has inexplicably really dropped the ball on providing responsible leadership for this crisis.





Austerity is a cruel cruel dynamic to drop into people's lives.

I can only say you must be here to see what it is like. For those friends in New Brunswick where we struggle with great debt, please trust me when I advise "you do not want to experience this first hand".








The cruelty of austerity and the unrelenting pressure to apply more suffering to the Greek people demonstrates the sociopathic nature at the core of our institutions and businesses, especially the banks.






On another personal note I am very pleased that the vote was decisive. A narrow win by either side could have easily tipped into  some unrest.

Yet little has changed.

Things will get worse. If trade is impeded shortages will begin to appear soon.



We are deeply effected by these dynamics. We are installing our pool. We have a big hole in the ground now and our contractors can not find out if the pool, which is supposed to be in Athens at this time and coming to Crete mid- week, is even there.

Crete and Greece have a big hole in the middle of their new road called OXI and we have a big hole in our property.

The EU has a big hole on the horizon and in all three cases what lies at the bottom of each hole cannot be seen at this time.


We have several thousands Euros in our Greek bank account. We can only withdraw 60 euros a day if I can find an ATM with money in it. If "a haircut" occurs in the banks, as predicted, we could see up to half of our money disappear in a flash.

So the road is OXI and, like it or not, we find ourselves walking it with our Greeks neighbours and friends.

Greece in the Crosshairs of Crisis

A Chinese blessing says, "may you live in interesting times". 

Buying a villa in Greece during an economic crisis certainly is interesting. Now the country has made it's way into the unchartered waters of being forced out of the Euro zone, a move for which there is no formula nor precedent.

The debate over the pending referendum to be held in two days is hot. Early polls suggested the No vote- or the vote to tell the EU to stick it,  was going to win easily. 

But now that people have had a taste of what expulsion or leaving will look like, the vote appears to be swinging the other way. But even a Yes note is fraught with uncertainty and is far from a solution. 

One lady I spoke with yesterday in Chania said "even if she has to go back to her village and live off her garden and 20 olive trees, it will be better than what she experiences now. There is not much ambiguity here. People are clear in their choice. They are scared. 

If Greece chooses to stop using the Euro and goes back to its historical currency called the drachma there is even greater cause for concern. Greece has nothing to base a new currency on at this time. So what is suggested is a "haircut".

This kind of haircut will see the Government take a substantial portion of everyone's bank account and savings to be used to establish a base for the new currency. This seizure could be as much as half or more of all bank accounts. That alone is a major cause for concern.



Many businesses only take cash. One taverna we ate at last evening said they needed cash in order to buy the next days' supplies as suppliers are not offering credit -even very short term credit, at this time. The local gas station manager only buys each morning, the gas she can sell that day and thus often runs out. 











The media- especially the foreign medias, are using fear to sell papers thus the worst fears are highlighted. Tourists are here on vast numbers, but they are spending far less than they used to. One person we spoke to said the Greeks "need the love from others" to help get past this. By love she meant coming here and spending.

We, my wife and I, have been gleaning the media, consulting with other ex-pats on Crete and drawing from any other well that may offer wisdom at this time.

To say we live in interesting times in Crete only begins to describe our reaction. Yet, at the end of the day, we remain observers in the Greek political arena and are simply along for the ride. It is not for us to voice an opinion too loudly as we need to live here and the fractures from this vote and crisis may be long lived. 










So these blog entries will focus on the view from where I sit.

To begin - a briefing on the current history to this crisis. The current Greek economic crisis has many tentacles and roots that often exceed my skill in macroeconomics to comprehend. Never the less I try. 

The current crisis is the result of poor choices by everyone involved. The sheer number of official voices and deeply vested competing interests complicates it. 

It begins with the Greeks, their culture, way of life and outlook on the world, their history and of course their roller coaster political life that has characterized them all through modern times. 

Tax avoidance is a matter of some honour for the Greeks. The Greeks do not seem to share a social contract such as many Canadians do who, as we pay our substantial taxes reluctantly, also see that we are supporting all that makes Canada work. It appears the Greeks have a different focus. Their major spheres of interest are family, village and church. The greater whole, well, it is an ambiguous relationship.

Social responsibility is different here. To say it is lacking is, of course, nonsense but to say it is other appears to be true. The Greek norms are quite foreign to us. We experience these wonderfully in such things as Greek graciousness and hospitality yet we can be perplexed at the general acceptance of such things as corruption and the all pervasive underground economy as the natural way of doing things.

On the other side is a myriad of groups and institutions beginning with the three major players.  The EUC [European Union Commission, the ECB [European Central Bank and the IMF [International Monetary Fund] together are called the Troika and it appears they have trouble talking to one another thus agreements are made by one body, altered by another or rejected by the third. It all makes for ongoing uncertainty from that front.

Certain leaders such a Germany’s Merkle also muddy the waters inserting their own vetoes and demands.

In short there are simply too many voices at the table for a meaningful negotiation.

Last year things were looking like the worst might be over. Unemployment was improving and Greece was beginning to move towards balancing the books.

But all that suddenly changed when a snap election was called and a coalition of the left – the Syriza party, ran on a platform of renegotiating austerity believing that the Troika would have to comply with Greek demands and grant a better deal.

The gamble has failed spectacularly

What has happened, simply put, is that everyone has boxed themselves into a corner. Syriza said no way to the Troika and now the EUC and the Troika say no way to the Greeks.

For some unfathomable reason PM Tsiparas [above], has called a snap referendum vote without a clear question. There is little time to debate or think and little meaningful information to go on. The strategy seems to be that a knee-jerk reaction by the Greeks voters will influence the Troika in ways favourable to Greece.

The Greeks are an emotional people and it looked like there was clearly going to be a 60% “No” vote to staying in the EU and complying with the bailout formula.

With the banks closed and with withdrawals severely limited the Greeks got a taste of what No will mean it now appears that number is reversing and about 60% will vote Yes. Yet if that happens it will mean the Greeks have rejected Syriza who they just elected and there may need to be a new election and everything begins all over again. But another serious question is whether or not the EU patience with Greece is nearing its end.

To say it is a mess is too simple. It is a tragedy. People are suffering and it appears the pain is growing and may begin to avalanche soon.

One analysis I find helpful to understand the Troika’s position is that Greece is not alone with an economy in crisis. Italy, Spain, Portugal and Ireland are struggling with extreme debt. It may be the Troika is making an example of Greece to scare these other countries into compliance with the Troika.

As I recall Napoleon encouraged his officers to shoot some soldiers from time to time to “encourage the others”.  Has the Troika come to a similar conclusion?

So Sunday's vote looms on the immediate horizon and there is little chance that whatever happens will mean relief for the Greek people. This will go on and on no matter the choices. 

For those in Canada this should not be seen as simply an EU problem. New Brunswick it flirting with similar excessive debt and the story from here could become the story there. 

The banks are a powerful reality in our lives and they do not have a human face such that they can easily be compassionate. The bankers are accountable to investors who have come to expect a healthy annual return on their investment. Taken together all these forces point to how unsustainable the structures that have served us so well in the past have become. 

As Ghandi observed many years ago, "there is enough in this world for everyone but there is not enough for everyone's greed". 

A Window On Living on Crete

This blog entry is brief [or a window] on what it is like to live on Crete. Crete is an island with the Cretan Sea to the north and the Libyan Sea to the south. It is 250 km long not very wide at any point

This picture of Crete shows how mountainous it is and also how it sits at the bottom of the Greek Archipelago. 

This blog entry is about the day to day necessities of learning to live here.

Our village, Periviola, is off the beaten track for tourists so we are an oddity in the village. People are beginning to recognize us. Neighbours greet us now, the village dogs come running for their treat [which we keep in our car] and the old men in the taverna wave to us as we pass.








We are living in a cottage and as such we shop, II I am learning Greek. I can count to 20, I know my colours and a few other words of politeness such as hello, thank you, please etc so I almost qualified to go to pre-school.  A few days ago I ordered my meal entirely in Greek and got exactly what I expected! The local butcher practices his English with me and I work on my Greek with him. "micro" for little and "meso" for half and so on.

Learning to shop is one of the best ways to become accustomed to the Greek culture. A few days ago out cottage toilet seat broke and had to be replaced. 

So first of all there are no big stores here such as Home Depot where you go  for all household repairs. There is one store for wood, another for tiles, another for plumbing fixtures and another for plumbing hardware. It takes a long time to get anything done because everything involves a series of slow steps.

So when I found my new toilet seat I learned a lesson about doing business. It is slow, one person makes the sale and notifies another who makes up a receipt and brings it to me and I go to still another who the money. All this through a constant stream of interruptions and diversions. Nothing here happens quickly. I have to step back and enjoy the experience. "Saga saga", slowly slowly. 

Accompanying the entries of the blog are some window pictures I have taken of new and old windows.  Windows, like doors, [the last blog featured doors prominently] are physical features of our homes that are interesting and as this is a "window" on Crete for those not familiar with it, pictures of windows new and old will pepper this introduction to day to day life on Crete. So sit back and enjoy.

This is our window from last winter overlooking Chania harbour.

It can be helpful to become lost from time to time. We are living on the outskirts of Chania, the second largest city on Crete. It is similar in size to Fredericton. Being close to the city this trip has given me the opportunity to learn the streets and routes through it.

When I have time I take a new road, get disoriented and wander through the area until I find somehting I know and then I have learned a new road.  It's fun and a real challenge at times as there are no blocks as we know them. Being 'lost' is the best way to become aware and to learn.





I remember when I studied chess my 'master' reminded me I could not learn in if I won- only if I lost. How true is that of life? Only when we are at a loss do we learn!

Wandering around a new culture is a form of being lost, observing and testing until I get it right.

Driving on Crete is an experience. It is a balance between staying far right at all times, as the guy behind may pass at any time and motorcycles weave around me at will, yet watching for the car door about to open in my path or pedestrian shoot out from between parked cars. Showing courtesy is a fast way to an accident. Pedestrians will walk straight at me but I do not stop as the guy behind will plow into me. The pedestrians, who are all over the road, simply look out for themselves.   I learned to drive in Montreal in the days when driving was  this crazy so it is a return to my roots and is still very familiar.  Note this traffic light right.

Traffic lights [above]are surprisingly well obeyed, contrary to stop signs which are merely suggestions. The traffic lights are not positioned opposite as we have but on the same side so when I pull up I need to stay far enough back to be able to see the green. If I get too far forward the fellow behind will beep when it is green. Of course he may beep for many other reasons as well so being first in line is a moment of some angst.

Road signs are in Greek and English which is helpful. But the youth regularly spray paint over the English. These signs also help me learn to pronounce Greek words as well. 

Food is one of the true delights of Crete. Whether it is eating out or going to the market, or even the grocery store the food is wonderful. We eat mostly a Cretan diet which is high in cheeses and vegetables.

We took our British ex-pat friends out for an antokristo meal at the taverna beside our cottage. Nikos, the owner-chef set up this authentic Cretan restaurant both as a passion and a business. Each night we have eaten there it has been full and on one evening stand room only

Pictured here is the modern Antokristo method that models an ancient time when meat was cooked beside the fire. This is a slow roast method that results in succulent meat. We had land, pork and chicken along with loads of wine, salads and of course raki. One can not have a proper Cretan table without raki.

 

The markets are everywhere and fresh food is readily available. The grocery stores are wonderful to shop in. First the number of items are not overwhelming but everything is here. Many products have enough English or a picture so they can be identified. Prices are very good. 

To buy hamburger  called mince here, I go the butcher and pick the piece of meat I wish and he grinds it right there. Like the way I remember as a kid but more to the point- I get to see the quality before it is rendered unrecognizable. 

Sampling cheese or olives is expected. There is far less industrial food than we might expect to see and far more fresh. If I want two eggs I can but two eggs- fresh. Vegetables are not perfect- they are often blemished as healthy vegetables are and in the larger stores a clerk is standing by to weigh and price items at the scales. 

There are few chain stores and no power centres. There is one road called the Souda Road where many speicality stores are spread out over several clicks but a drive down that road will bring you to most everything including the Ikea.

This pic on the right is of Naxos harbour taken from the window of the ambassador's office on the island of Naxos.

The pharmacy on Crete is an interesting case where the Cretan's are a long way ahead of us. First of all the signs are prominent and feature a green cross. Some are more elaborate such as this one with other images. But it is inside that is of interest. Pharmacists can hand out antibiotics and other drugs for readily recognizable symptoms, without a prescription, such as ear infections, bladder infections, sinus infections. Or they can send you directly to the hospital for a test to determine which of two or three things may be at issue. So no need to go to  the doctor if you onow what is wrong. Makes sense does it not?

The eyes are the windows of the soul. -- Thomas Phaer (c.1510-1560

A smile is a window in your face to show your heart is at home. -- unknown 

The end.... for now