Sunday, December 30, 2012

Living in Chania

Sunday Evening, Post 2, Living in Chania, Dec 30, 2012, 8 p.m. local time.

Chania is a very old city dating from the Minoan period [2000 BCE] as an occupied major community on Crete.  Archaeological evidence shows it has been continuously occupied since the Palaeolithic. Its natural harbour surrounded by hills for protection would have been the attraction.

I'm staying in what became the " old Jewish quarter", in a 600 year old Venetian Manor House overlooking the old harbour. It has been completely modernized and is very functional and comfortable. I have one more day to spend here before picking up a rental car and moving to a villa in the village Almyrida [pronounced al-mer-eeda] overlooking the Cretan Sea. Driving appears to be a blood sport in Crete. Stop signs are definitely a suggestion. No doubt a blog will follow on this experience!

Look closely at the craftsmanship that went into restoring this manor house. The old stones are preserved within the upgrade walls.




This little niche probably dates from the Turkish period. It was a window since stoned over at the back. My apartment features these old architectural components beautifully blended with the modern renovations.


The real wonder and magic of Chania is being out and about. The Old Harbour cafes, restaurants and bars each offer different themes and attractions. I've learned the first key thing in choosing a cafe is first, the comfort of the chairs. Strangely, in a city that has overcome incredible challenges, the chairs often leave much to be desired!

This is the off season so the harbour and streets are quite easily navigated. In the summer Chania is packed with tourists.  Tables are hard to find. Everything is open. This is Christmas week obviously but that means more is open than will soon be the case. The Cretans observe Christmas on Dec 25 as we do, but their gift giving is on New Years Day. We have been enjoying all the open shops etc because the residents are completing their gift giving preparations today and tomorrow. 



It's the streets of the old town that offer the most interesting sites. Every little space is crammed with history ranging from the old Venetian houses - to Ottoman influences - to Nazi iron works from the occupation, through to modern necessities. It is hard to imagine all that is involved in renovating these centuries old structures.

An open door shows just how modern and well kept these old building are on the inside. Each open door offers  a glimpse into their living. 


The animals have a rough life here. There are many feral cats that often do not belong to anyone but are never the less cared for by the local residents. People want the cats around that are good mousers. It is a "live and let live"balance. Their lives are short. The dogs do not fare as well as the cats as they are more dependent on the kindness of others. The dogs 'hang out' at the souvlaki stands and other such places where people feed them. 


So that's a little something of living in Chania. Because the streets are narrow there is no curb side garbage pick up as such. That means I can't let it build up. So moderate size garbage bags are carried in the a.m. to the edges of Old Town- or parts that can be accessed by vehicles, where communal garbage bins are located. 

Enjoy your snow shovelling if you are reading this tonight. I'm enjoying a "May" kind of evening on the waterfront and being very grateful for this blessing of travel. The Chippewa have a saying that "to travel is to dance". I'm dancing!

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