Blessing of the Waters - Greek Orthodox Epiphany

Today I got up early and went to the Greek Orthodox Church in the seaside village of Kalyves, for the Epiphany service that began at 8am. I arrived about 8:30 but was aware that the attendance builds over time. When I went in, there were only a dozen people and four priests chanting. One, then another, would pick up the chant. There were two other men who appeared to be coordinating the next texts, signaling back and forth and making sure the priests had the proper text in front of them to chant next.

 

I noted when I went in that it was dark. The great candelabra were not lighted. However, as time went on I saw they were slowly, one after the other, being lit as on a dimmer switch. 

[BTW- if you see the most back seat- just above the left corner of the Bible- that is where I sat]

All the while, others kept coming in. After making the appropriate bows and kissing the icon, they would go up front and light candles. Some would then go to a particular icon at the front and pray. Parenst would bring their children with them. All the time people were greeting each other, exchanging hugs and kisses and often chatting briefing, quietly and respectfully as we might.

This all underlines the nature of Greek Orthodox worship, which is much more private in nature. At times everyone would stand and acknowledge a focal point and then return to the rather informal ethos. This continued for well over two hours.

The priest leading the service came out and proceeded through the congregation carrying the gold covered Bible. I, naturally, caught his attention, as there were still relatively few in attendance. After about an hour, more and more people were arriving and greeting one another and making the appropriate religious approaches. By the time the service was reaching its conclusion it was standing room only.

Communion was served in a very elaborate way, the details of which escape me. 

As the service was concluding I went outside to await the procession. This is where I found myself standing beside this gorgeous cat. She did not appear to like me to much and quickly left!

Maybe its the hair cut? All Greek men have hair it seems.

Everyone left to be blessed by the priest at the door. They would kiss the gold cross he held and then kiss his ring, and then he would tap each on the head with a bundle of basil which had been dipped in holy water, uttering a blessing. Then they might chat a moment, as we do, before it was the turn of the next person.

According to legend, the herb growing on the original Cross of Christ when discovered by the Empress Helena, Constantine’s mother, was basil. This gives rise to the words basilica and the name Vasilis. It stems from the Greek word Basileus, which means king.  We still use it for a great column, the basilisk of a building and chefs consider basil the king of herbs.

Each person immediately lined up for the Holy Water. Outside there were tables and a large urn set up that contained the blessed water. Many brought their own container to bring the water home. There were also disposable cups for others. One man I was standing beside was holding his container filled with herbs.  He had waited patiently, outside, in the same spot since before I had arrived. By the way, the service was broadcast on speakers outside that would have been heard many blocks away.

After this was concluded the priest was standing alone so I took the opportunity to introduce myself to him. He did not speak English. I tried to explain, with the help of some rudimentary sign language, that I too was a ‘Papas’ [priest] and Canadian [Kanandaizy] . After a moment he grasped what I was attempting to say it and added ‘Protestanizy?’ I nodded my head ‘yes’ and he bowed to me.  I was humbled.  We greeted each other with “Chronia Polla” – Many Years,  and “Kalli Chronia”, Happy New Year. My Greek is pretty fundamental and the Greeks are very gracious with my efforts.

By this time there was a serious thunder storm approaching across the Cretan Sea so everyone rushed to the harbour for the blessing of the waters, just as the rain started. This was the event I was especially waiting for. Everyone crowded along the wharfs. Others gathered under shelters on the beach or climbed the rocks.

The young men of the village were in bathing suits, and it was cold even by our standards about 8C. I was standing on the opposite wharf for a better view so could not hear what was being said, but it was clear there was a humorous banter going back and forth between the boys and the priest.

Suddenly, the gold cross that everyone in the village had just kissed on the steps of the church, was hurled far out into the harbour and the young men were off.  

 

 After a few minutes of diving and surfacing, one of the youth came up with the cross, and holding it high, received the applause of the village. The priest blessed him. It is believed the youth that finds it enjoys good luck and good health for the coming year. 

 

It was at this moment that the thunder, lightening, wind and rain set in and it was everyone for themself. It stormed heavily, including hail, for the remainder of the day.

The Blessing of the Waters has several layers of meaning that still elude me. Epiphany is the enlightenment or the revealing of the light. On the day before Epiphany the priest goes house to house with basil and holy water to bless each room of the home. Yesterday, while in the high mountain village of Kokkino Chorio, I met a priest walking down the road carrying plants and water. This is what he was doing, although I did not know it at that time.

Epiphany is also the occasion of the sanctification of the small boats. The pending storm precluded the normal procession that would have seen all gathered move to the harbour, about a kilometer away. The icons would have led the procession followed by the priests, the VIPs and the people of the village.

It was a meaningful Sunday and one, that no doubt, I shall recall each time Epiphany comes round again on our calendar, especially when it is much colder than the moderate temperature I enjoyed today.