Monday, September 30, 2013

The Aegean


Being on an island, even a large island such as Naxos, the sea is never far away and almost always present in some capacity. The people here eat a lot of fish but factory trawlers and overfishing by all nations have managed to destroy much of the wealth of the sea. The red mullet may be disappearing, but octopus is still flourishing on the Aegean's' floor and is a staple here as a snack or a main meal. 

I'm not so fond of calamari. It does look tantalizing to eat doesn't it? How can one resist such beautiful food. Here it is fresh. I watched these dry in the morning sun and then as the chef came to collect it for the evening dinner, I got this picture. These are heavier than they look.

Everyone appreciates the clear waters of the southern climates. These waters are "gin clear" as a friend says. Here the propeller of a rather large fishing boat is clearly seen several feet under the surface against the bottom- perhaps another 20 feet away. When I snorkel it is often hard to judge the relative size of fish because the visibility is so far I can't judge how big they may be against an unknown distant background. In one moment, as I followed a large fish, it was not until I saw discarded tires on the ocean floor that I realized the visibility was in excess of 100 feet and thus the fish was substantial in size.



This is our beach for swimming, Agia Perokopius [Saint Perokopius]. It has lovely sand and a long gentle drop off with gentle rolling waves. Often it is quite still and being just 15 minutes from town by car, quite popular. This is the beach for oldsters like me. Other beaches feature other attractions. Two beaches north is where the wind surfers hang out. Some stretch for miles and some beaches are small and private. Nude bathing is common all over. Yet everywhere someone is anxious to serve me a beer or 1/2 kilo of wine. Nice way to spend a morning.


Never far away is a chapel or church. 
These dot religious reminders dot the landscape and are almost always in 
view if  you take a moment to look.  Many of these churches are used only a few times a year, but all are lovingly tended. 


The ferries are the vital link for the hundreds of islands. Here a regular ferry arrives in port. These are fast moving and the come in with the skill of a race car driver lurching into a turn, spin, stop and quick dock. Imagine the speed that results in this lean on this boat  moments from docking. It probably would not be legal in Canada. Then it is everyone for themselves as those departing- perhaps in the 100's, compete with those boarding, in a rush. Within a very few minutes people, cars, trucks all disembark and embark and the ferry is on its way. Organized chaos!, and fun to watch. In a couple of day we'll be part of departing herd fighting the tide of bodies arriving on Naxos.




This is a cedar park  preserved against the sea where they grow well. It is also a lovely beach for a swim offering many little private areas to read or enjoy the sun


The Palatia (small islet) upon which stands the majestic Portara, is joined to Naxos by a causeway. On either side is a sheltered bay depending on the direction of the wind. To the right is a gentle sandy swimming area and to the left a rocky area that is deeper and lying underneath is the ancient Neolithic village of Naxos.

Every little piece of shoreline offers the beauty of clear warm water and the Aegean greens inviting you for a swim.

Naxos harbour with the island of Paros in the distance. 

This is the village of Apollonus on the far northern tip of the island. It is very secluded and accessible either by boat or long, treacherous narrow switch back roads over the mountain passes. This is a fishing village but it is also home of the Kouros.









The Kouros is an incredible unfinished statue  lying in situ where it was abandoned over 2500 years ago. It is believed to be a statue of Dyonisius or Apollo. No one knows. This is a great example of how the largest marbles were carved into replicas of the gods. The block was chiselled out of the surrounding rock and worked on. When brought near to completion we think it was moved carefully and transported to its final site for finishing.

Something happened here to cause this one to be abandoned. A fault may have been found, or a crack may have emerged. We do not know.

What is very apparent is the size of this carving. If it had been completed in would have weighed about 130 tons and would have been the largest statue of a god in the ancient world. Naxos is well know for its marble and the Naxonian marbles were and are still highly valued.

Here you can appreciate the scale when measured against our friend Evie.



But this is what most think of when we think of the Aegean.
Beautiful gin clear water
And it is everywhere!





No comments:

Post a Comment

Thank you for reading my blog. I look forward to reading your comments.